What to see, do & eat in Valencia

Valencia is a sunny little city, with an easy-going atmosphere. It’s perfect to explore on foot or by rental bike. Taxis are plentiful and can be hailed from the street or ordered with the Freenow app.

The first breakfast is a simple affair, a croissant or a bread with tomato. Lunch doesn’t start till at least 2-2-30pm in Valencian restaurants. Dinner from 9pm, but many restaurants will be open for an 8.30pm reservation. Smaller shops close from 2-5pm, and open again until 8pm. Department stores and big stores are open 10am-9pm.

Almuerzo

This is the big, second breakfast in Valencia, eaten between 10 and 12PM: a sandwich, beer, and “cremaet” (coffee with local herb liqueur) at the end. It’s very traditional, and people these days tend to just have one on a Saturday with their friends. My BBC article explains the importance of this meal to Valencians.

La Cantina: excellent organic & traditional almuerzo in Ruzafa.
La Pascuala: a taverna in Cabanyal making almuerzo since 1921.
Kiosko La Pergola: A kiosk with open-air seating and tasty breakfast sandwiches, a must!
El Trocito del Medio: next to Mercado Central, good fillings.

Lunch & dinner

Tapas

Tapas are from Andalucia and come free in bars with drinks. Valencia does have some good tapas bars, but these are “sit-down” places where you order from a menu.

El Albero: authentic Andalusian tapas in Canovas.
Bar Tonina: out near Mestalla stadium, emphasis on fish
Tapas La Boatella - good ‘freiduria’, can’t reserve but line goes quickly, opposite Mercado Central.
Ardacho - a more chic eatery, amazing tapas and large plates – excellent for a casual dinner.
Cafe Placita: famous old bar
Infanta: nice spot in El Carmen, a little touristy..
Tasca Sorolla: well-liked tapas place
La Pilareta - iconic place, over 100 years old
Bar Canada - one of our favorite local bars. The torreznos (pork rinds) are epic.

Great restaurants

Ultramarinos Huerta - one of our favourite places to eat good Spanish food.
Canalla Bistro: casual fusion restaurant of Michelin chef Ricardo Camerena in Rusafa. Great set menus and cool design.
Flama: super-popular place for excellent flame-grilled meats and more.
Felix Chaques: fine food and the chefs serve you directly to your table.
Marcuteria Iberian Omakase: set menu, bar seating only, absolutely excellent cuisine.
Sutil: local-but-high-end dishes in a modern and refined space.
Toshi: only 6 seats, needs reservation, set menu, pricey but fine-dining.
Michelin restaurants: La Salita, Riff, Ricard Camerena, La Poblet, Nozumi

Note: I haven’t included my recommendations for sushi, Chinese, Peruvian, Korean, Japanese etc. Ask me for tips when you need a change from Spanish cuisine!

Eating out in Cabanyal — old fisherman’s neighborhood and beach barrio

Mercabanyal - cool open-air food space: burgers, bao, bowls, pizza.
La Fábrica de Hielo: converted ice factory near the beach: has a burger van and live music most nights.
Anyora: rustic bodega for local farm-to-table. Try the “chuleton de tomate.”
Fets: casual place with sharing plates and local specialities, one of my favourites!
Mengem: we will find out on Daniela’s birthday!
Mercader - pretty courtyard with a bar, food stalls, oysters and other tapas.
Clementina - authentic Mexican run by a couple from Mexico City.

Paella

Casa Carmela: best in town, reserve well in advance.
Goya: a solid choice in Canovas (neighbourhood across Gran Via, between Rusafa and the centre).
L’alqueria de la Font d’en Courts: beautiful place in a country house courtyard in the fields. Only 10 mins in a taxi, or take the No 14 bus, which stops outside.
Bon Aire: award-winning paella in the rice fields of El Palmar village (you need to drive). Take a sunset boat tour through the Albufera rice paddies afterwards, a huge lagoon where paella rice is grown.

Note: Paella is only eaten at lunch. Tourist restaurants will offer it at night but it’s not recommended.

Ham!

Beher: the best place to try ham in the center on Plaza Ayuntamiento. Order a plate of “jamon oro” for the ultimate experience.

Burgers

Hundred burgers: very tasty and there’s one just minutes from your apartment.

See & Do

To check what’s on in town: https://valenciasecreta.com/en

The Historic Centre (Ciudad Vella/ Old Town)

You will also hear people call this “El Carmen,” after its most famous barrio. It’s a great place to wander around, looking at street art, and all the tiny alleyways and squares. It is home to tons of bars and restaurants, as well as the old city gates: the Serrano and Quart towers. Two of the most famous squares are Plaza de la Reina and Plaza de la Virgen are in this neighborhood.

Main historic buildings to see are: Valencia Cathedral (claims to have the “real” Holy Grail) and The Silk Exchange (Lonja de la Seda), one of the most important places from the old days when Valencia was a major silk-trading hub.

Mercado Central: a must-see, not just for the 100s of produce stands, but also for the architecture and glass ceilings. Eat at Central Bar for lunch. No reservations but the line goes quickly — this is the market bar of Michelin chef Camerena (not Michelin prices!)

Mercado Ruzafa: (my neighbourhood market) is a real, non-touristy one, worth checking out, open til 2pm each day except Sundays.

Mercado Colon: beautiful former market, now filled with cafes, ideal for an afternoon drink, snack, and people-watching.

City of Arts & Sciences; A stroll from the old town along the leafy 11-km Turia park (the old riverbed) brings you to architect Santiago Calatrava’s mind-bending City of Arts and Sciences and Europe’s largest aquarium.

Art galleries

Check out the CCCC (Centro del Carmen de Cultura Contemporánea) in an old cloister. Free entry.
Fantastic modern-art collection in the Centro de Arte Hortensia Herrero.
The National Museum of Ceramics in a gorgeous palace with Valencian ceramics from the 8th century onwards.
Bombas Gens sometimes has great immersive art exhibitions.
Our most famous artist is Joaquín Sorolla, but the Sorolla museum is still closed. You may be able to see some of his works at this museum.

Day trips

There’s lots to explore just a few hours from the city, whether you go south to the beautiful villages of the Mediterranean coast or inland to the mountainous countryside.

Denia and Javea: About 10 miles apart, Denia and Javea are two pretty coastal towns south of Valencia. Denia, the larger of the two, is famous for its gastronomy and is home to Quique Dacosta’s 3-Michelin-starred restaurant. Jávea is a well-heeled little town, with a pretty old port area.
Wine tasting in Utiel-Requena: Just an hour’s drive from the city is an ancient wine region, which produces wine from Bobal grapes. I recommend a tour, tasting and a night in a vineyard hotel.
Thermal springs: Montanejos is an area of clear pools for bathing and grassy banks for picnicking. It's a favorite day trip of Valencians. Take rock sandals!
Chulilla: This pretty white village in a hikers paradise peeps across a dramatic ravine. Have hearty lunch at El Pozo before a wander across the rope bridge and a dip in the blue pools.
Guadalest: A tiny fortified town on top of a huge rock is a must-see. Make the day extra special with a wine tasting at a nearby family vineyard, Masos Guadalest (owned by our neighbour Pepe).