The Valencia Edit

Written By Jill Petzinger

Valencia lives at its own pace and with an easygoing energy that makes it one Spain’s most captivating cities. Stroll the lush Turia park, wander ancient alleyways, climb a medieval tower, or just sit in a square and soak up the light color and atmosphere of this beautiful place.

My personal cheatsheet gives you the intel to enjoy the best of Valencia without breaking a sweat!

What do See & Do

The Historic Centre (Ciutat Vella)

Often called “El Carmen,” after one of its barrios. This is a place to get lost, look up, and don’t miss stunning squares like Plaza de la Reina and Plaza de la Virgen, and the towers of Serranos and Quart at the old city walls.

Historic Buildings

Market Culture

  • Mercado Central: A must-see for both the food stands and the architecture. Join the fast-moving lunch queue at Central Bar, the excellent market eatery of Michelin chef Ricard Camerena (not Michelin prices!)

  • Mercado Colón: Beautiful former market, great for an aperitif or a snack.

Art Galleries

The Food Scene

There’s much more to the Valencian diet than paella and oranges. The market gardens surrounding the city grow a huge range of fruit and veg. And of course, we have seafood galore from the Med as well as local oysters and mussels

Keep your eye out for esgarret, roasted red peppers, olives, garlic and salt cod marinated in olive oil. Fideu is a delicious alternative to paella, made with short noodles and seafood. Sweet-toothed Valencians love pumpkin flan or donuts (flan/buñuelo de calabaza), tiger nut milk and sugar-dusted pastries (horchata and fartons) and exquisite nougat (turrón).

Valencia’s famous “agua de Valencia” cocktail mixes gin, vodka, orange juice and cava to lethal effect. No one drinks Sangria, so ask for tinto de verano instead— red wine with soda similar to 7-Up.

The Big Breakast

Valencians may nibble on a little pan con tomate to start the day, but they don’t mess around when it comes to almuerzo (esmorzaret), their mid-morning breakfast from 10-11:30am. It entails a huge sandwich, a beer, and a “cremaet” (coffee with herb liqueur). Esmorzaret has been part of the fabric of local life since rural times — these days, most have it on Saturdays. My BBC article explores its history and importance.

  • La Cantina: Organic place resurecting old recipes in Ruzafa.

  • La Pascuala: Iconic tavern in Cabanyal since 1921.

  • Kiosko La Pergola: A little kiosk with sensational sandwiches (tip: get the super bonbon, if you’re not vegetarian).

  • El Trocito del Medio: Next to Mercado Central, whopping sandwiches.

Tapas

You won’t find the Andalusian tapas experience in Valencia. However, the city has some great tapas places, where you sit down and order from a menu.

  • Taberna El Albero: authentic Andalusian tapas in Canovas barrio.

  • Tapas La Boatella: apecialises in deep-fried fish, no reservations but line goes quickly.

  • Ardacho: upscale tapas and big meals in a chic interior.

  • Infanta: a busy spot in El Carmen, good outside seating

  • La Pilareta: iconic spot, over 100 years old.

  • Bar Canada: one of the best local bars (and one of the few left) in Ruzafa for simple tapas & the best torreznos in town.

  • Café La Placita: a beloved bar in a very pretty plaza next to the Botanical Gardens

  • Tasca Sorolla: small with lots of light and well-made tapas.

My dinner recommendations

  • Ultramarinos Huerta: high-quality Spanish food.

  • Canalla Bistro: casual fusion in a hip atmosphere, the bistro of Michelin chef Camarena.

  • Flama: super-popular for flame-grilled mastery.

  • Felix Chaques: high-end little bistrot where the chef serves you at your table.

  • Marcuteria Iberian Omakase: exceptionally creative Spanish food, served omakase style

  • Sutil: modern and refined spot, special occasion feel

  • Toshi: 6 seats, fine-dining (reservation required).

  • Michelin Stars: La Salita, Ricard Camarena, El Poblet, Nozumi, Riff and more.

Dining in Cabanyal — the beachside barrio

  • Mercabanyal: fun, open-air food space: burgers, bao, bowls, pizza.

  • La Fábrica de Hielo: bar and live music space in a converted ice factory near the beach

  • Anyora: rustic bodega for local farm-to-table. Try the “chuleton de tomate.”

  • Fets: casual place with sharing plates and local specialities, one of my favourites.

  • Mengem: the hot new restaurant in Cabanyal, creative local menus in cute space.

  • Mercader: pretty courtyard tapas food market and bar.

  • Clementina: authentic spot run by a couple from Mexico City — try the chicharron de queso!

Paella 

Paella is only eaten at lunch. Tourist restaurants will offer it in the evenings, but it’s not recommended.

  • Casa Carmela: super famous — and deservedly so — reserve well in advance.

  • Goya: a solid choice near Gran Via.

  • L’alqueria de la Font d’en Courts: lively restaurant in a tiny farmhouse with courtyard dining, 10 mins from center in taxi & the No. 14 bus stops outside.

  • Bon Aire: award-winning paella in the rice fields of El Palmar village (you need to drive). After lunch, take a sunset boat tour through the Albufera lagoon, where the rice is grown.

Ham

  • Beher: awesome ham bar tin the center on Plaza Ayuntamiento. Order a plate of “jamon oro.”

Day Trips

There’s tons to explore within 1-2 hours of Valencia, from coastal villages to mountainous countryside.

  • Denia and Javea: About 10 miles apart, Denia and Javea are two pretty coastal towns south of Valencia. Denia, the larger of the two, is famous for its gastronomy and is home to Quique Dacosta’s 3-Michelin-starred restaurant.

  • Wine tasting in Utiel-Requena: Just an hour’s drive from the city lies this ancient wine region, which produces wine from Bobal grapes. Ask me about tours and vineyard stays.

  • Thermal springs: Montanejos is an area of clear pools for bathing and grassy banks for picnicking.

  • Chulilla: This little white village in a hikers paradise peeps across a dramatic ravine.

  • Guadalest: A tiny fortified town on top of a rock. Make the day extra special with a wine tasting at a nearby vineyard.

Getting Around

Valencia is perfect to explore on foot.

There are tons of bike rental shops, it feels like one on every corner— be sure and set Google Maps to “bike paths” to guide you. The city bus network is great- the metro is less useful, but good for getting to and from the airport.

Hail taxis from the street/ a stand or use the Freenow app.

Need to Know

  • Dining Times: Lunch starts around at 2pm or later. Dinner from 8.30/9pm

  • Hours: Small shops close 2pm–5pm. Department stores stay open 10:00 AM–9:00 PM.

  • Global Tastes: Ask me for tips on non-Spanish restaurants when you need a change!

Want a personalized itinerary on Valencia or elswewhere in Spain? Just reach out for a chat. Valencia Edit

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Jill Petzinger