Why Cadiz should be on your Andalusia itinerary
Cadiz Cathedral and the seafront. Credit: Unsplash
First-time visitors to Andalusia typically head straight to Spain's "Golden Triangle"—Seville, Granada, and Cordoba—to marvel at epic landmarks like the Real Alcázar, the Mezquita, and the Alhambra. If they have time for a day trip, it’s normally to Ronda via some traditional pueblos blancos (white villages).
However, if you want to add a fascinating and underrated location to your Andalusian adventure — head to Cadiz. It’s just an hour from Seville by train or 1.5 hours by car. While it works as a packed day trip, it's better to stay the night and have dinner (more about the food below).
I recently spent a weekend in Cadiz and was reminded what a unique and charming place it is.
Perched on a spit of land and lapped by the Atlantic Ocean, Cadiz is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in Europe. Founded by the Phoenicians over 3,000 years ago, it was later shaped by the Romans, Moors, and Christians.
If you’re driving, you’ll cross the impressive, modern Puente de la Constitución bridge to reach the old town center, which is a maze of narrow streets, tree-shaded squares, churches and faded mansions that echo Cadiz’s wealthy past as Spain's main trading port with the Americas.
Best Things to Do in Cadiz: History and Architecture
Cadiz is incredibly pedestrian-friendly and best explored on foot. For a scenic walk, stroll along the Campo del Sur promenade—a seawall that curves around the old town—before heading to the lush, 19th-century Genoves Park with its manicured trees and shrubs.
When it comes to historic sites, take a guided walking tour or plot your own route through the city's iconic squares:
Plaza de San Juan de Dios: Home to the beautiful town hall.
Plaza de la Catedral: Features the huge, golden-domed Cadiz Cathedral.
Plaza de la Libertad: For the lively food market and surrounding tapas bars.
Plaza de las Flores: A bustling square famous for its colorful flower stalls.
Plaza Fragela: Check out the striking neo-Mudéjar architecture of the Gran Teatro Falla.
The Roman Theater: Built around 70 B.C. but undiscovered until 1980!
Cadiz has over old 100 watchtowers still standing today. Make sure to visit Torre Tavira, the official port watchtower. Standing 45 meters tall, it features a camera obscura for a 360-degree view of the city.
Sunday afternoon in June at La Caleta beach, Cadiz. Credit: Jill Petzinger
A city beach between forts
Right on the edge of the old town sits La Caleta, a buzzing city beach with buttercup-yellow sand. Film buffs will recognize it as the location where Halle Berry walked out of the sea in the James Bond movie Die Another Day.
At the end of La Caleta, you’ll find Castillo de Santa Catalina, a star-shaped fortress jutting into the ocean with a tiny church inside. Clamber up to the rampart walls for views of the rocks and the ocean. The compound was hosting a great art exhibition when we were there in June, so check out what’s on when you’re there.
If you have a rental car and some extra time, drive east along the coast toward Tarifa, Europe's windsurfing capital. The 100km coastline between Cadiz and Tarifa has stunning windswept beaches. You could stop at Pajares Beach, tucked between the charming towns of Zahara de los Atunes and Barbate, to see if the Instagram-famous Retinto brown cows are sunbathing at the water's edge.
Taberna Casa Manteca. Credit: Jill Petzinger
Sherry and Seafood: The Culinary Soul of Cadiz
Eating and drinking is reason enough to visit Cadiz. The city’s is near the famous "Sherry Triangle"—the region encompassing Jerez de la Frontera, El Puerto de Santa María and Sanlúcar de Barrameda. Local tabernas are the perfect places to sample the best of the region's bodegas, be that crisp white Fino sherry, elegant Manzanilla or deep, amber Amontillado
Classic Cadiz Tapas
With all that ocean around, fish and seafood are front-and-center in Cadiz. Don't leave without ordering:
Pescaíto Frito: Lightly battered, perfectly fried local fish.
Tortillitas de Camarones: Crispy, lacy shrimp fritters.
Atún Rojo: Locally-caught bluefin tuna, served raw or stewed in a sauce.
Cazón en Adobo: Juicy, cumin-marinated and fried dogfish.
Puntillitas Fritas: Crispy baby squid.
Chicharrones: Thinly sliced, spiced pork belly served with a squeeze of lemon.
Papas Aliñás: A refreshing cold potato salad.
Payoyo Cheese: Rich, creamy goat and sheep milk cheese from the nearby mountains.
Recommendation: To eat all of the above, head to Taberna Casa Manteca. Run like a well-oiled machine by the sons of a famous matador, its walls are lined with bullfighting memorabilia. It very popular, so best to arrive before opening time and join the line outside. We sat at the bar, the best place to watch the action.
Fine Dining: Aponiente and the "Chef of the Sea"
For a culinary experience like no other, take a short taxi ride across the bay to El Puerto de Santa María to Aponiente. The renowned 3-Michelin-star restaurant is helmed by Chef Ángel León. Known in Spain as the "Chef of the Sea," León’s commitment to sustainable marine gastronomy is so complete that there is no meat on the tasting menu.
Aponiente recently opened an outdoor dining space in the surrounding sea marshes, offering one of the most astonishing fine-dining experiences imaginable. Chefs prepare and serve the freshest dorado, shrimps and oysters from the waters surrounding your table while the salty air drifts over your head.
It is an intense, sensory experience. For instance, guests can witness the traditional Japanese Ike Jime technique, where a fish is killed and prepared into fresh sashimi on the spot (though you can opt-out of seeing this when booking).
If you want a preview of Chef Ángel León’s astonishing creativity, you can watch his dedicated episode on Netflix’s Chef’s Table. If you want to experience it in person, book well in advance – we reserved 4 months ahead for June.
Dreaming of your own Andalusian adventure? Skip the cookie-cutter vacation. As a local, Spain-based travel advisor, I’m here to help you design the perfect itinerary. Contact me for a free, no-pressure chat to start planning your dream trip!